Narrative #6 - Cave Diving
"Unlucky Dive #7"
By: Ron Reil
Preface
Some of my many interests came
together while I was stationed at the US Naval Facility on the northern end
of the island of Barbados in 1968-1969. Living on this beautiful island was
wonderful for me. I lived in a cute little bungalow right on Gibbs Beach.
The white coral sand beach was my back yard, and the Caribbean Sea was my
playground.
I was very lucky when a beautiful
little yacht, "Sea Dart", sailed in from England one day and was put
up for sale. I bought the teak wood boat in preparation for an extended cruise
around the world after my tour of duty in the Navy expired. Much of my free
time was occupied in sailing and diving the tropical waters surrounding the
island. I already owned a sleek little
yacht,"Vega", so for a short time I would have two very
different yachts sitting out in back at anchor.
My early years of diving took
place in the western Pacific as a teenager. My father was stationed on the
island of Okinawa, in the Ryukyu Islands of Japan. I became comfortable with
the sea at a very early age, learned the skills of SCUBA and skin diving,
and how to sail small boats, all before I was 13 years old. Another interest
that I developed was in the exploration of the many natural, and manmade,
limestone caves on the island. Even though it was illegal to go in the caves,
by military order, I couldn't restrain my curiosity and spent many exciting
hours crawling through the winding passages of the many cave systems
nearby.
My interests in cave exploration
and SCUBA diving came together in Barbados where there were many unexplored
caves. Deep within some of the caves were underground lakes and rivers, and
many flooded passageways. The object in all cave exploration is to discover
new cave that has never been seen before. One of the proven methods for this
is to dive the flooded passages, and hopefully come up into new, dry, cave
beyond.
By this point in my life I was
an expert diver, having been a diving instructor, and having spent thousands
of hours underwater photographing marine animals in the Caribbean. With my
long time friend, Jack, I dove a number of flooded passages in the caves
of Barbados. We had been very successful, discovering some large and beautiful
new cave systems using this technique.
Jack and I were very fortunate
to become members of a joint Barbadian/Danish caving expedition to Barbados
while we lived there. My job in these explorations was to dive the flooded
passages when we found them. A dive I made deep within a cave we had discovered
is the subject of this story. Because it was my seventh cave dive I call
this story Unlucky Dive #7.
I was most fortunate to become
part of a select team of speleologists from Denmark who had come to Barbados
to explore and map some of the previously unexplored caverns. The expedition
was headed by the world famous speleologist Ole Sorrensen. Ole was also the
only one who spoke both Danish and English. Both Jack and I had been invited
to take part in the expedition for a variety of reasons, but that is another
story.
One of the caves we had scheduled
for exploration was a cave that had been known for over a hundred years.
It had been visited by thousands of people over the years, and had been highly
vandalized in the process. Since there were few native people that were
interested in cave exploration, it was highly likely that there could still
be unexplored crawl ways in the cave. Most people would walk by the tiny
mud filled crawls without considering them for exploration. We were counting
on just that fact to have preserved some parts of the cave in a virgin state.
We were not to be disappointed.
After considerable time and
exploration we found a tiny crawl way that twisted around back and forth
several times and finally dropped vertically into a deep clear pool of water.
A passage could be seen leading out through the bottom of the pool to the
side away from the main cave. This was just the sort of lead that could well
"go", and end up taking us into a new cave system.
We gathered on a ledge about
10 feet above the water and discussed the passage as we looked down into
the crystal clear water. The ultra still conditions under ground can lead
to pools of water that are so clear that the water is virtually invisible.
We were only able to tell there was water blocking our way by the color change
of the rock that was covered in water. It was amazing how clear the water
was.
Since I didn't have my little
pony tank with me I didn't want to try diving the passage at that time. Since
it was late in the day and we were all tired I suggested that we return the
next day to "push" the passage. One of the Danes was of a different mind
however. He lowered himself down into the pool and promptly dove down to
the bottom and disappeared into the tiny conduit at the bottom. I considered
that pretty gutsy considering that the passage was too small to turn around
in. He would have to back out the way he had gone in. Going in on a breath
hold dive could be very dangerous.
The time passed very slowly
as we waited for him to back out into our vision. After a minute had passed
we began to be very concerned. We waited and watched, getting more and more
concerned as we did so. Finally it became apparent that something had happened
to out comrade. We were pretty well in agreement that we had a body recovery
situation on our hands. The tension in the small chamber could have been
cut with a knife it was so thick. For someone else to go in after him on
another breath hold dive was out of the question. We simply had to leave
the cave to get our diving gear and return to bring out the body, a crushingly
depressing thought.
As we prepared to leave the
cave, a sudden motion at the bottom of the pool caught our attention, and
there was our friend coming out of the hole, head first! Apparently he had
found something beyond the pool and had gone exploring without telling us.
We were very happy to see him alive, but also quite angry that he had let
us go through the mental anguish of thinking he was dead.
When he had climbed up to our
ledge he told us, in Danish, how he had only traveled a short distance under
the wall and had come out in a fantastic new cave. He couldn't resist going
for a short exploration of the new cave, after all he had discovered it at
considerable personal risk. After our tension subsided we elected to leave
exploration of the new cave for the next day, and to go out for a big celebration
that evening of the discovery of what seemed to be a major new cave system.
We also wanted to unwind a little after the emotional experience at the pool,
although no one admitted to that.
Before we left the cave Ole
gave the new cave a name. He elected to name it "Shedith's Cave" after his
wife back in Denmark. For me Shedith's Cave would prove to be a very dangerous
and unforgiving place.
Shedith's Cave
Among speleologists the discovery
of a new and possibly large cave is one of the most exciting events that
can happen. We were all very excited that evening and celebrated our discovery
until late in the evening, actually early in the morning! We finally gave
up the merriment and turned in as the next day was going to come early. We
were all anxious to pass the pool and see what Shedith's Cave would prove
to be.
The next day, with our previous
night's activities fogging our minds, we trudged down the path to Cole's
Cave loaded down with all of the equipment we thought we might need, including
SCUBA gear. The gear I would be using was a very special set of twin tanks
that contained air at over twice the normal SCUBA tank pressure, 7000 psi!
A normal tank will take 3500 psi safely. These tanks were rigged as a tiny
double tank set. Each tank was only about 4 inches in diameter and perhaps
14 inches long. They had their own special regulator, harness, and needle
pressure gauge. If I conserved my air by using controlled breathing techniques
I could get up to 30 minutes out of the miniature SCUBA equipment.
We worked our way through the
open chambers of Cole's Cave burdened with our load of gear. When we finally
came to the tiny twisting tube that lead to Shedith's Cave we had to resort
to crawling along while pushing or pulling the heavy sacks containing our
equipment. Finally, we were all gathered at the pool, or as many of us as
the confined space on the ledge above the pool would allow, the remainder
of the team being strung out along the tube waiting their turn to emerge
and pass the pool. We were assured that the new cave was just beyond the
wall submerged by water. Even with his assurances ringing in my ear it was
difficult to commit myself to the short breath hold dive into the new cave.
With my heart in my throat I
dove to the bottom and entered the small passage while pushing my gear along
in front of me. It was only a short distance, perhaps 20 feet, and I emerged
safely into Shedith's Cave for the first time. I gathered my thoughts and
relit my carbide light as I waited for the rest of the crew to join me. Soon
we were all together, and anxious to be off exploring this totally virgin
cave.
We took turns leading, as we
did in all our caving, so that every member of the group would have the
excitement of discovery. Those that were doing their time in the rear of
the column could hear the present leader's exclamations of delight at each
new formation or chamber. The cave we had emerged into was nothing but a
small side passage which soon entered the main river passage of the cave.
When we entered the main cave
we had a choice to go upstream or downstream. We decided to do the upstream
direction first. As we proceeded up the big passage it was difficult to walk
because the floor was covered with cave pearls, small spherical calcite
formations resembling in appearance and layered origin their namesake. Parts
of the cave floor had a thin calcified layer overlying soft mud with the
small river flowing on top. As we walked, we broke through the calcified
layer into the soft clay. It not only made progress slow and difficult, but
we also destroyed a lot of cave pearls in the process. It is the first law
of caving to preserve the formations of the cave, so this was particularly
frustrating. We had to destroy the cave to explore it!
We didn't discover anything
very spectacular, in fact the cave was pretty barren other than the cave
pearls. We finished the exploration of the cave, finally arriving at a deep
pool of water at the bottom end of the cave where the stream ended at a deep
pool of water. The river may have entered the water table, or possibly it
could reemerge into new cave beyond the pool. My dive would provide the
answer.
Diagram of The Flooded Chamber In Shedith's Cave
The above diagram is not to scale. I suspect that the slope of Shedith's Cave as it approaches the flooded chamber is not as steep as shown. The rock fall came from above so the roof of the cave must have extended upwards with the boulders filling it to the top. There was no passage over the top. The air chamber was just big enough for me to get my head and shoulders above water as I leaned against the mud bar that projected up from the floor of the passage. The distance from where I entered the water and the rock fall probably didn't exceed 100 feet.
Although the diagram above would
indicate that the passage above the flooded chamber was fairly big, it was
actually too small for our 7 expedition members to gather together at one
spot. With Jack's help I got into my diving outfit attached the half inch
diameter nylon rope tether to my waist and shoved off into the flooded
passageway. I had a diving mask and dive light but they were useless. As
soon as I started moving and stirred up the water the semi liquid mud on
the floor of the passage filled the water blocking out all visibility. The
blackout was so complete that even with my hand and the light held almost
touching my face plate I couldn't see any trace of my hand or light.
I had experienced such total
blackouts during other dives in caves so was not concerned. I progressed
forward, slowly feeling my way along. The rope tether was also my method
of communicating to my friends waiting by the water's surface. We used a
series of tugs on the line to relay information. In such totally black conditions
the tether was a powerful psychological link to the safety of the open cave
behind me.
One of my first observations
was that the ceiling of the chamber was almost totally flat and smooth. It
stretched off in all directions with the same regularity and texture so that
it gave no indication of which way the passage ran. This would prove important
upon my return.
As I moved along the passage
I explored the ceiling and the muddy floor with my hands but I never touched
any walls on either side. I finally bumped into large boulders in front of
me, and after some exploration determined that I had come to a break down
room, a place where large pieces of the ceiling had collapsed forming a pile
of debris. Usually such piles of rock can be passed over the top, or around
the side, but I could not find any passage. The boulders were piled up in
an open arrangement with numerous small and large passages between them.
Some were big enough to allow me to squeeze through.
All was going well, my breathing
was slow and rhythmic, and the tether was responsive to my tugs and signals.
I decided to push ahead and try to penetrate through the pile of boulders.
All went well except that the tether was beginning to have considerable
resistance to being pulled forward as I progressed. It was getting caught
up in the many twists and turns my route through the boulders took.
After a relatively short distance
a void opened in front of me where I couldn't feel any other rocks in front
or to the sides. I emerged into a chamber, and at the same time slid up on
a mud bank. I felt overhead and found an air chamber. I had emerged into
a tiny room that was no bigger than an inverted bath tub, perhaps even smaller.
I could just get my head and the top of my shoulders above water. Everything
was mud, but the tiny opening gave me the chance to look at my needle air
gauge. It showed that I had used half of the air in my system.
I saw no reason for concern
since I had the tether to follow during my return trip through the rock pile.
As I looked around it was apparent to me that I was at the extreme bottom
of the cave. I had reached the water table, the point in most caves where
the flow of the water slows and deposits its load of sediments, thus the
mud bank I rested against. To go any farther would be pointless and dangerous
considering my air situation. With one last look around I turned and submerged
to return the way I had come. I was in for a nasty surprise.
I yanked on the tether to signal
that I was returning and to start taking up slack. I was surprised when there
was no answering tug. I was even more surprised when I pulled hard on the
rope and it wouldn't move, it was jammed in the rocks somewhere. I tried
several times with no better success. I decided to just follow it through
the rocks and free it when I found the place it was jammed. Following the
rope without having the slack taken up by my companions as I moved forward
was not easy because I had taken my tanks off to get through the rock pile
and carried them in front of me. To carry the tanks and handle the accumulating
tangles of rope was difficult. I couldn't chance getting tangled in the tether
in these tight confines where I couldn't maneuver to free myself. In the
close confines of the passage I would be unable to even reach my diving knife
if needed.
I started sliding my hand along
the rope as I entered the big rock pile for my return trip. I had not gone
more than a few meters when I came to a hole that the rope passed through
but was too small for me! This was a shock as my first thought was that the
rocks had moved trapping me. As soon as I felt the first cold fingers of
fear creep along my spine my breathing rate increased using more precious
air. I forced myself to relax and started using enforced breathing controls,
difficult under the circumstances.
It was apparent that my tether
had not followed me through the labyrinth and had slid over or under rocks
into a position that I could not follow. I thought about the situation briefly
and decided that I had no recourse other than to drop my tether and forge
ahead without it to locate another route through the rocks. I knew the risk,
but because I could not get any response to my tugs on the rope it had to
be badly jammed and therefore useless to me.
Once free of the tether, movement
was easier with one hand free to search my way. I moved ahead finding tiny
passages that I hoped were going in the right direction. If I should come
out into some other flooded part of the cave my future would be very grim.
After what seemed a very long period of searching my way through the maize
I emerged into deep water without the confining rocks. The elation of breaking
free of the imprisoning rock pile was dampened when I drew the last breath
of air from my tanks. I was now totally on my own!
I assumed that I was pointing
in the right direction, and being a very good free diver, I felt that I could
easily swim the distance remaining to the life giving air at the other end
of the passage. I pushed off and swam steadily but with considerable force.
I was so confident that my direction was correct that I did not have my hand
out in front of me. I was stunned when I ran headlong into a solid rock wall
with my head! I hit hard enough that I saw stars, but more important, my
confidence evaporated instantly. I was now in trouble and I knew it. I had
air remaining for only one more try. I had to make it count.
Once again I pushed off, favoring
my right, as I still felt that I was going in the correct general direction,
at least I hoped I was. I swam steadily for what seemed an eternity, only
to run into a rock wall once again, this time my hand connected before
my head. It didn't matter, I was done. My air was gone, and I couldn't go
any farther. I hung suspended against the flat ceiling of the flooded
chamber in total liquid darkness as my consciousness started to fail. I made
up my mind that I would not take a breath of the water, but would go to the
end with the regulator in my mouth. I didn't want to die with my lungs filled
with that muddy water.
As I hung there, the reality
of my situation slowly faded, and my oxygen starved mind took me elsewhere.
I found myself looking down on my suspended body from above, and then I was
thousands of miles away looking down on my mother and father as they sat
at their breakfast table reading a newspaper with my name in the
headlines,"Walt Reil's Son Dies in Barbados Cave". The shock of that
headline, or pain in my head slowly brought me back to the cave, and a dull
awareness of my situation. My head HURT!
Not just my head in general,
but my scalp hurt. I was not aware enough to realize what was happening yet,
but I was about to be given a second chance at life. My partner and dearest
friend Jack had been timing my dive. He knew that my air had to be gone,
even using the most expert controlled breathing techniques. When he was convinced
that I was in serious trouble he had one of the Danish cavers hold him by
the ankles and shove him up under the submerged ledge. He reached out as
far as he could and swept his arms around as far as he could reach. At the
extreme end of his reach he touched HAIR, my hair!
Jack grabbed on and pulled for
all he was worth, and that was the pain I felt in my scalp, and what brought
my consciousness back slightly at the very end. He pulled me out of the flooded
cavern, and the next thing I knew I was looking up into the bright caving
lights of all my friends, and above to the grey limestone of the ceiling
of lower Shedith's Cave. Unlucky dive #7 passed into history.
I recovered quickly and was
soon up and on my way out of the cavern with the rest of the team members.
When we came to the flooded passage that I had to dive to get back into Cole's
Cave I had a very difficult time forcing myself to push through the flooded
tube. After a short delay, and some encouragement from my friends, I was
soon on the other side and then out of the cave system into the warm tropical
air. Walking up the trail through the sugar cane, smelling the rich fragrance
of the various tropical flowers and plants, was one of the most beautiful
and intense moments of my life. The air never smelled so sweet before, and
the sky had never looked so blue.
Conclusion
I continued caving with the
expedition, in fact I still love caving, but I have never put on the air
tanks to dive another flooded passage again. I was given a second chance
by my partner Jack, and I am greatful for it. Having explored seven flooded
passages is enough. I know what cave diving is all about and have experienced
all it has to offer. I enjoyed most of it, but there are other challenges
more worth while still waiting.
Of all the various outdoor sports,
cave diving is the most deadly. Even today, with triple tanks equipped with
separate regulators, BCs, and all the other advancements in diving
technology, the sport still claims a very high toll in young lives
every year, especially in Florida where cave diving remains controversial.
Legislation has been considered to outlaw the sport because of the extreme
risk involved. I do not agree with such drastic measures, but I do have a
unique viewpoint on the sport. I dedicated this narrative to all those divers
who were not as lucky as I was. It is only because of the close attention
of my friend Jack that I am not counted in their number.